Watch and Wait
June 6, 2009
The Trastevere fountain draws a mix of regulars and passersby each day. Photo by Mac McKerral
Tourists take a break on the fountain steps to slather sun block on kids, slurp gelato and study maps in order to plan their next foray through this place that the tour books describe as a last vestige of old Rome — and one in danger of losing that moniker.
The creep of restaurants, tacky souvenir shops and too much traffic seem to envelop the place, urban kudzu ever creeping along.
Locals hang at the fountain, too, perhaps pondering the ongoing change in their neighborhood’s complexion. They drink single beers and engage in animated conversations that I wish I could translate.
Then again, maybe not.
Street performers arrive late afternoon and at night.
Two black-spandex clad men with a small sound system performed a dance/acrobatics routine two nights in a row. Their acrobatic skill levels lie somewhere way south of Chinese circus performers and just north of a high school cheerleading team.
As always, age proves the enemy. But the crowds love them, and the show goes on.
An Egyptian mummy turned up in front of the fountain Thursday.
The creation — someone wrapped in metallic gold Lycra-like fabric with a mask — stood stoically in front of a small box wrapped in gold foil — the donation container.
The only way to detect a human presence comes from a twitching of legs — only visible from the back. I saw a couple other mummies on Friday at other plazas in the city, so it seems someone operates a mummy franchise. They look identical.
I wondered how quickly the mummified enigmas could extricate themselves from the wrapping paper if someone snatched the collection box and headed into the labyrinth of twisting streets that make up Trastevere.
I suspect the mummies might remain in their glowing Saran Wrap, staying in character.
In my three-hour stint at the fountain Friday, no coins made it into the mummy’s gold box.
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